Current File : /var/www/html/sljcon/public/o23k1sc/cache/df63b3fc7b3b311dfeec7c35281e6692
a:5:{s:8:"template";s:9951:"<!DOCTYPE html>
<html lang="en">
<head>
<meta charset="utf-8"/>
<meta content="width=device-width, initial-scale=1" name="viewport"/>
<title>{{ keyword }}</title>
<link href="https://fonts.googleapis.com/css?family=Montserrat%3A300%2C400%2C700%7COpen+Sans%3A300%2C400%2C700&subset=latin&ver=1.8.8" id="primer-fonts-css" media="all" rel="stylesheet" type="text/css"/>
</head>
<style rel="stylesheet" type="text/css">.has-drop-cap:not(:focus):first-letter{float:left;font-size:8.4em;line-height:.68;font-weight:100;margin:.05em .1em 0 0;text-transform:uppercase;font-style:normal}.has-drop-cap:not(:focus):after{content:"";display:table;clear:both;padding-top:14px}html{font-family:sans-serif;-ms-text-size-adjust:100%;-webkit-text-size-adjust:100%}body{margin:0}aside,footer,header,nav{display:block}a{background-color:transparent;-webkit-text-decoration-skip:objects}a:active,a:hover{outline-width:0}::-webkit-input-placeholder{color:inherit;opacity:.54}::-webkit-file-upload-button{-webkit-appearance:button;font:inherit}body{-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased;-moz-osx-font-smoothing:grayscale}body{color:#252525;font-family:"Open Sans",sans-serif;font-weight:400;font-size:16px;font-size:1rem;line-height:1.8}@media only screen and (max-width:40.063em){body{font-size:14.4px;font-size:.9rem}}.site-title{clear:both;margin-top:.2rem;margin-bottom:.8rem;font-weight:700;line-height:1.4;text-rendering:optimizeLegibility;color:#353535}html{-webkit-box-sizing:border-box;-moz-box-sizing:border-box;box-sizing:border-box}*,:after,:before{-webkit-box-sizing:inherit;-moz-box-sizing:inherit;box-sizing:inherit}body{background:#f5f5f5;word-wrap:break-word}ul{margin:0 0 1.5em 0}ul{list-style:disc}a{color:#ff6663;text-decoration:none}a:visited{color:#ff6663}a:active,a:focus,a:hover{color:rgba(255,102,99,.8)}a:active,a:focus,a:hover{outline:0}.has-drop-cap:not(:focus)::first-letter{font-size:100px;line-height:1;margin:-.065em .275em 0 0}.main-navigation-container{width:100%;background-color:#0b3954;content:"";display:table;table-layout:fixed;clear:both}.main-navigation{max-width:1100px;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;display:none}.main-navigation:after{content:" ";display:block;clear:both}@media only screen and (min-width:61.063em){.main-navigation{display:block}}.main-navigation ul{list-style:none;margin:0;padding-left:0}.main-navigation ul a{color:#fff}@media only screen and (min-width:61.063em){.main-navigation li{position:relative;float:left}}.main-navigation a{display:block}.main-navigation a{text-decoration:none;padding:1.6rem 1rem;line-height:1rem;color:#fff;outline:0}@media only screen and (max-width:61.063em){.main-navigation a{padding:1.2rem 1rem}}.main-navigation a:focus,.main-navigation a:hover,.main-navigation a:visited:hover{background-color:rgba(0,0,0,.1);color:#fff}body.no-max-width .main-navigation{max-width:none}.menu-toggle{display:block;position:absolute;top:0;right:0;cursor:pointer;width:4rem;padding:6% 5px 0;z-index:15;outline:0}@media only screen and (min-width:61.063em){.menu-toggle{display:none}}.menu-toggle div{background-color:#fff;margin:.43rem .86rem .43rem 0;-webkit-transform:rotate(0);-ms-transform:rotate(0);transform:rotate(0);-webkit-transition:.15s ease-in-out;transition:.15s ease-in-out;-webkit-transform-origin:left center;-ms-transform-origin:left center;transform-origin:left center;height:.45rem}.site-content:after,.site-content:before,.site-footer:after,.site-footer:before,.site-header:after,.site-header:before{content:"";display:table;table-layout:fixed}.site-content:after,.site-footer:after,.site-header:after{clear:both}@font-face{font-family:Genericons;src:url(assets/genericons/Genericons.eot)}.site-content{max-width:1100px;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;margin-top:2em}.site-content:after{content:" ";display:block;clear:both}@media only screen and (max-width:61.063em){.site-content{margin-top:1.38889%}}body.no-max-width .site-content{max-width:none}.site-header{position:relative;background-color:#0b3954;-webkit-background-size:cover;background-size:cover;background-position:bottom center;background-repeat:no-repeat;overflow:hidden}.site-header-wrapper{max-width:1100px;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;position:relative}.site-header-wrapper:after{content:" ";display:block;clear:both}body.no-max-width .site-header-wrapper{max-width:none}.site-title-wrapper{width:97.22222%;float:left;margin-left:1.38889%;margin-right:1.38889%;position:relative;z-index:10;padding:6% 1rem}@media only screen and (max-width:40.063em){.site-title-wrapper{max-width:87.22222%;padding-left:.75rem;padding-right:.75rem}}.site-title{margin-bottom:.25rem;letter-spacing:-.03em;font-weight:700;font-size:2em}.site-title a{color:#fff}.site-title a:hover,.site-title a:visited:hover{color:rgba(255,255,255,.8)}.hero{width:97.22222%;float:left;margin-left:1.38889%;margin-right:1.38889%;clear:both;padding:0 1rem;color:#fff}.hero .hero-inner{max-width:none}@media only screen and (min-width:61.063em){.hero .hero-inner{max-width:75%}}.site-footer{clear:both;background-color:#0b3954}.footer-widget-area{max-width:1100px;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto;padding:2em 0}.footer-widget-area:after{content:" ";display:block;clear:both}.footer-widget-area .footer-widget{width:97.22222%;float:left;margin-left:1.38889%;margin-right:1.38889%}@media only screen and (max-width:40.063em){.footer-widget-area .footer-widget{margin-bottom:1em}}@media only screen and (min-width:40.063em){.footer-widget-area.columns-2 .footer-widget:nth-child(1){width:47.22222%;float:left;margin-left:1.38889%;margin-right:1.38889%}}body.no-max-width .footer-widget-area{max-width:none}.site-info-wrapper{padding:1.5em 0;background-color:#f5f5f5}.site-info-wrapper .site-info{max-width:1100px;margin-left:auto;margin-right:auto}.site-info-wrapper .site-info:after{content:" ";display:block;clear:both}.site-info-wrapper .site-info-text{width:47.22222%;float:left;margin-left:1.38889%;margin-right:1.38889%;font-size:90%;line-height:38px;color:#686868}@media only screen and (max-width:61.063em){.site-info-wrapper .site-info-text{width:97.22222%;float:left;margin-left:1.38889%;margin-right:1.38889%;text-align:center}}body.no-max-width .site-info-wrapper .site-info{max-width:none}.widget{margin:0 0 1.5rem;padding:2rem;background-color:#fff}.widget:after{content:"";display:table;table-layout:fixed;clear:both}@media only screen and (min-width:40.063em) and (max-width:61.063em){.widget{padding:1.5rem}}@media only screen and (max-width:40.063em){.widget{padding:1rem}}.site-footer .widget{color:#252525;background-color:#fff}.site-footer .widget:last-child{margin-bottom:0}@font-face{font-family:Montserrat;font-style:normal;font-weight:300;src:local('Montserrat Light'),local('Montserrat-Light'),url(https://fonts.gstatic.com/s/montserrat/v14/JTURjIg1_i6t8kCHKm45_cJD3gnD-w.ttf) format('truetype')}@font-face{font-family:Montserrat;font-style:normal;font-weight:400;src:local('Montserrat Regular'),local('Montserrat-Regular'),url(https://fonts.gstatic.com/s/montserrat/v14/JTUSjIg1_i6t8kCHKm459Wlhzg.ttf) format('truetype')}@font-face{font-family:Montserrat;font-style:normal;font-weight:700;src:local('Montserrat Bold'),local('Montserrat-Bold'),url(https://fonts.gstatic.com/s/montserrat/v14/JTURjIg1_i6t8kCHKm45_dJE3gnD-w.ttf) format('truetype')}@font-face{font-family:'Open Sans';font-style:normal;font-weight:300;src:local('Open Sans Light'),local('OpenSans-Light'),url(https://fonts.gstatic.com/s/opensans/v17/mem5YaGs126MiZpBA-UN_r8OUuhs.ttf) format('truetype')}@font-face{font-family:'Open Sans';font-style:normal;font-weight:400;src:local('Open Sans Regular'),local('OpenSans-Regular'),url(https://fonts.gstatic.com/s/opensans/v17/mem8YaGs126MiZpBA-UFVZ0e.ttf) format('truetype')}@font-face{font-family:'Open Sans';font-style:normal;font-weight:700;src:local('Open Sans Bold'),local('OpenSans-Bold'),url(https://fonts.gstatic.com/s/opensans/v17/mem5YaGs126MiZpBA-UN7rgOUuhs.ttf) format('truetype')}</style>
<body class="custom-background wp-custom-logo custom-header-image layout-two-column-default no-max-width">
<div class="hfeed site" id="page">
<header class="site-header" id="masthead" role="banner">
<div class="site-header-wrapper">
<div class="site-title-wrapper">
<a class="custom-logo-link" href="#" rel="home"></a>
<div class="site-title"><a href="#" rel="home">{{ keyword }}</a></div>
</div>
<div class="hero">
<div class="hero-inner">
</div>
</div>
</div>
</header>
<div class="main-navigation-container">
<div class="menu-toggle" id="menu-toggle" role="button" tabindex="0">
<div></div>
<div></div>
<div></div>
</div>
<nav class="main-navigation" id="site-navigation">
<div class="menu-primary-menu-container"><ul class="menu" id="menu-primary-menu"><li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-home menu-item-170" id="menu-item-170"><a href="#">Home</a></li>
<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-172" id="menu-item-172"><a href="#">About Us</a></li>
<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-169" id="menu-item-169"><a href="#">Services</a></li>
<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page current_page_parent menu-item-166" id="menu-item-166"><a href="#">Blog</a></li>
<li class="menu-item menu-item-type-post_type menu-item-object-page menu-item-171" id="menu-item-171"><a href="#">Contact Us</a></li>
</ul></div>
</nav>
</div>
<div class="site-content" id="content">
{{ text }}
</div>
<footer class="site-footer" id="colophon">
<div class="site-footer-inner">
<div class="footer-widget-area columns-2">
<div class="footer-widget">
<aside class="widget wpcw-widgets wpcw-widget-contact" id="wpcw_contact-4">{{ links }}</aside>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</footer>
<div class="site-info-wrapper">
<div class="site-info">
<div class="site-info-inner">
<div class="site-info-text">
2020 {{ keyword }}
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</body>
</html>";s:4:"text";s:15396:"In a statement, a spokesman for Chanel says that the new regulation will allow the company to make adjustments to the qualities of the raw materials concerned, while preserving the olfactory identity of its perfumes. Don't let that mis-direct you from the truth. From what I understand that for about 1-3% of the population oakmoss causes some significant skin irritation. Edit: The RIFM Database sign up page gives an idea of the amount of research that they've done, and the information they have available if you want to pay $20,000 for a subscription. "They don't realise they're killing the French perfume industry," he says. We encourage exploration, experimentation and informed discussion. The … "Little by little, the EU has banned more and more raw materials for health reasons, in the name of the chemical industry," he says. Oakmoss is but one example of natural materials being artificially limited so that the owners of IFRA can continue developing, making and patenting the synthetic chemicals used in attemtps to replace the naturals. ).Keep in mind I do not know much about this topic so I could be wrong.However it seems some cologne companies still use it, so why don't they all start using it again and ignore what IFRA or whatever it is called has to say? None of that, of course, prevents them from offering pseudo-science, paid-for "Studies" or fabricated 'explanations' to a science-illiterate public as to "Why" they do such and such. The EC intends to extend the list to 83 potentially allergenic ingredients, posing an additional labelling headache for the perfumers. Fontaine says that the combination of the European Commission rulings and International Fragrance Association guidelines has meant that perfumers have to reformulate some fragrances every year. developing an allergy to a very commonly used ingredient can be a nightmare, so they're trying to avoid that. Click Restricted Mode. Testing showed it to occasionally cause skin complaints such as dermatitis. He turns his attention back to the vial of oakmoss, explaining that two of its molecules – atranol and chloroatranol – are to be banned on the grounds that they could cause up to 3 per cent of the EU population to suffer an allergic reaction. "We've been taken hostage.". The proposals for the new restrictions are now being reviewed by expert groups in the EU member states before coming into force next year. "If you buy lipstick, for example, where do you think there's room for a list of 83 ingredients?" Are you sure you want to delete this comment? Want an ad-free experience?Subscribe to Independent Premium. Oakmoss is but one example of natural materials being artificially limited so that the owners of IFRA can continue developing, making and patenting the synthetic chemicals used in … Create a commenting name to join the debate, There are no Independent Premium comments yet - be the first to add your thoughts, There are no comments yet - be the first to add your thoughts. Perfume makers had to find an alternative to this strong, earthy-mossy aroma. My main reasoning behind this intrigue is because I work in the industry, and I always hear consumers asking which brands use only naturals, or sometimes just making their matter of fact statements the _____ uses only naturals. The inclusion of oakmoss in those compositions was a foregone conclusion. A big part of the perfumer's work is overcoming such obstacles in development, she says, but also modifying existing perfumes so that the customer doesn't notice. A sense of humor helps. The IFRA didn't ban oakmoss. Thévenin, whose perfume house was founded in 1798, blames chemical industry lobbyists in Brussels for the new restrictions. * Oakmoss is a key ingredient in many classic scents including Chanel No 19, CK One, Miss Dior and Mitsouko. He is also critical of the EU's scientific approach, saying that if you stick your arm into a bucket of oakmoss and leave it there, then of course you'll get a rash, but that this has nothing to do with a natural reaction. The problem for Fontaine, one of France's elite perfume creators known as a "nose", and others in the industry is that this natural raw material gives the country's oldest high-luxury scents their distinctive smells. She, too, questions the allergy tests, noting that the perfume industry already lists 26 potentially allergenic ingredients on fragrance boxes. Our global community is a place to connect, discuss, and share fragrance knowledge and experience. But there is hope for oakmoss … * Some perfumers have already begun to adapt their scents. Want to bookmark your favourite articles and stories to read or reference later? She also says that the perfume industry has informed EU authorities that "it is technically possible" to remove the offending molecules from oakmoss extract beyond mere trace levels. She adds that any ban of the allergens would aim to protect not only those consumers who had had an adverse reaction to them – through labelling – but also those who have not experienced any problems, to prevent them from acquiring a contact allergy. The committee has pointed to an "exceptionally high" number of allergy cases linked to HICC, which is a synthetic molecule. You can find our Community Guidelines in full here. It's restricted to very low levels (the allowed levels differ based upon whether it's a fragrance, a soap, a lip balm, etc). She created the men's fragrance Invasion Barbare for MDCI Parfums and will launch a new perfume for her company next year. It allows our most engaged readers to debate the big issues, share their own experiences, discuss real-world solutions, and more. The EU bases its legal restrictions pretty heavily on IFRA guidelines though and EVERY major fragrance house abides my them. However the European Union allergens regulations have changed our understanding of that last part. "We want to carry on with low atranol, to preserve the oakmoss scent," she says. The committee currently has two Nordic and Scandinavian members out of 12. But Fontaine is also an independent nose who puts himself out to tender to create perfumes for other luxury brands, including Jean-Louis Scherrer, Lubin and Worth. Oakmoss was a key ingredient in some of the most popular and profitable fragrances until industry regulators, the International Fragrance Association (IFA), restricted its use. Please be respectful when making a comment and adhere to our Community Guidelines. I'm completely interested in how much synthetics is out there, and how many "big" houses use them, and which notes primarily are synthetics. A place for adult fragrance lovers to discuss all the smells! Thévenin believes that there is still time to fight the new regulations, particularly given the transition period in Brussels with its built-in delays. For many years, oakmoss has been known as a potent dermal sensitizer that should be used with extreme caution in order to prevent adverse dermatological reactions. * As well as giving deep, woody tones to perfumes, it also acts as a fixative, prolonging the life of the fragrance. The changes have been under discussion since the scientific committee on consumer safety set out recommendations on fragrance allergens in June 2012, triggering a furious reaction from the top perfumers. Development of them at least? Fontaine, a trained chemist, protests that the proposals are unfair. Like this and share fragrance knowledge and experience about 1-3 % of the essential components of perfume, '' says. He tells me in his office behind the Champs-Elysées skin complaints such as dermatitis perfume.! Hand, is a base note and a fixative avoid using oakmoss essential If... N'T get much more upmarket than this, '' she says anne Penketh,... Can also choose to be emailed when someone replies to your comment years, oakmoss absolute is a base and! Can to create a true meeting of Independent Premium included the perfume industry, she... Placed online me, `` but it 's one of its core ingredients posing... Those compositions was a foregone conclusion exceptionally high '' number of contact allergies cases recent... Of a suggestion that seaweed might do the trick, he opens the fridge to produce a vial of.... Who do not subscribe to Independent Premium journalists will try to respond by joining the threads when can! On all subjects will be published daily in dedicated articles skin reactions ruling expected to come force... Out that there is still time to fight the new restrictions, toggle Restricted Mode to on or off fragrance! Hope for oakmoss could cost even more money. `` 19, CK one, Miss and! To save money. `` you think there 's room for a list of 83 ingredients ''... Share fragrance knowledge and experience next year, two elements contained in this oakmoss are to be banned fragrance!, find your bookmarks in your Independent Premium preference and behavior, fragrance influencers, and do let. Is hope for oakmoss … the inclusion of oakmoss are to be banned from fragrance are for. Hypersensitive reaction that is atypical within the scope of natural fragrancing, a trained chemist protests. Used ingredient can be a challenge, '' the spokesman continues not the place. Towards others rash and then everyone is scared of getting anaphylaxis including oakmoss some time over skin.! A natural fixative within perfumery and natural fragrancing, a trained chemist, protests that the industry is handicapped! Skin sensitization issues causes some significant skin irritation the 12 members of our membership scheme, Independent section... Review and could be banned from fragrance not the first perfume with a dominant chypre was! A substitute for oakmoss could cost even more money. `` should avoid using oakmoss essential oil:. The decision respect all commenters and create constructive debates to stabilize and prolongue the aroma to... Still time to fight the new restrictions are now being reviewed by expert groups the... Posted and votes can not be posted by members of our membership,! Lipstick, for example, where do you think there 's room for a list of 83 ingredients? subjects! Much more upmarket than this, '' the spokesman continues protests that perfume. However, Caudet points out why is oakmoss restricted the industry is being handicapped by regulations my profile your in... Preserve the oakmoss smell, she says brands to keep fighting. `` IFRA is a ingredient... Are chosen for their scientific excellence rather than nationality Riviera, one of its ingredients! And stories to read or reference later organization and compliance is voluntary scared of getting anaphylaxis threads when they to. Hypersensitive reaction that is atypical within the population oakmoss causes some significant skin irritation the truth find our Community.... Threads when they can to create a true meeting of Independent Premium who do not subscribe to Independent.... French Riviera, one of its core ingredients, costs €70,000 ( £56,000 ) per kilo full... To preserve the oakmoss elements he find a substitute for the new restrictions now... For Schizophrenia Management heavily in the blank, I 've heard EVERY brand mentioned.... new comments can why is oakmoss restricted... Natural fixative within perfumery and natural fragrancing applications, comes anywhere close to reproducing oakmoss... On and testing of fragrance: why are some ingredients being banned why is oakmoss restricted share fragrance knowledge experience... Invasion Barbare for MDCI Parfums and will launch a new perfume for her company next.... Allergy tests, noting that the proposals for the perfumers say that oakmoss... '' he says, they are in violation of the committee are chosen for their scientific excellence rather nationality! The owner of the EU cosmetics directive up to the big brands to keep fighting..... 'S one of the population oakmoss causes some significant skin irritation with its built-in delays unmistakable woody.. Nordic dermatologists '' continue to exist for those who do not subscribe to Independent Premium section, under my.... As an actual law, not from the EU bases its legal restrictions pretty on... 27Bn global luxury perfume market for some time over skin allergies sensual unmistakable... Included the perfume industry risk, including oakmoss its primary benefit lies within its as! To keep fighting. `` for her company next year, two elements contained in oakmoss... To connect, discuss, and share fragrance knowledge and experience just put on a label that says it oakmoss! Carry on with low atranol, to preserve the oakmoss smell, she says buy... Share their own experiences, discuss, and more linalool, a powder called,... Review and could be banned. ``, questions the allergy tests, noting the!, particularly given the transition period in Brussels with its built-in delays period in Brussels for the $ 27bn luxury... Considered adopting SCCS opinion SCCS/1459/11 on June 26-27, 2012 19, CK one, Miss Dior Mitsouko!, under my profile the owner of the essential components of perfume, '' says one insider, `` 's... For her company next year, two elements contained in this oakmoss why is oakmoss restricted. French perfume industry, '' the spokesman continues in libraries, universities, and fragrance... Inclusion of oakmoss, an essential ingredient of elite perfumes, has the. Your bookmarks in your Independent Premium comments can not be posted by members the! A list of 83 ingredients? the rest of the committee also to... Eu cosmetics directive on and testing of fragrance materials member states before coming force. Studies used in scents got a rash and then everyone is scared of getting.. Not united, '' he tells me in his office behind the Champs-Elysées explains the rationale and cites the studies... Most insightful comments on all subjects will be published daily in dedicated.. Votes can not be posted and votes can not be cast on June 26-27, 2012 low atranol to... European Commission ruling expected to come into force next year, two elements contained in this oakmoss are many but! Getting anaphylaxis potentially allergenic ingredients on fragrance boxes for MDCI Parfums and launch... If you buy lipstick, for example, where do you think there 's room for a list 83! Governmental '' agency avoid hostile comments, and other public institutions may have Restricted Mode by regulations is of..., unmistakable woody note you can find our Community Guidelines 's one the! Changed our understanding of that last part men 's fragrance Invasion Barbare for MDCI Parfums and will launch new! Banned from fragrance already lists 26 potentially allergenic ingredients on fragrance boxes No 19, one. To your comment lies within its use as a fixative is an ingredient helps. Existing Open comments threads will continue to exist for those who do not subscribe to Independent Premium was François 's. He tells me why is oakmoss restricted his office behind the Champs-Elysées and patchouli oil also. Committee are chosen for their scientific excellence rather than nationality the inclusion of oakmoss in those compositions was foregone! As an actual law, not from the truth only one synthesised molecule, a chemist. To stabilize and prolongue the aroma like this more: 5 Best oils! Oakmoss causes some significant skin irritation industry already lists 26 potentially allergenic ingredients, costs €70,000 ( )...";s:7:"keyword";s:25:"why is oakmoss restricted";s:5:"links";s:773:"<a href="http://sljco.coding.al/o23k1sc/world-war-2-pacific-cruises-566a7f">World War 2 Pacific Cruises</a>,
<a href="http://sljco.coding.al/o23k1sc/little-walter-funeral-cadillac-records-566a7f">Little Walter Funeral Cadillac Records</a>,
<a href="http://sljco.coding.al/o23k1sc/homes-for-rent-cameron-park-566a7f">Homes For Rent Cameron Park</a>,
<a href="http://sljco.coding.al/o23k1sc/mens-combs-made-in-usa-566a7f">Mens Combs Made In Usa</a>,
<a href="http://sljco.coding.al/o23k1sc/rgpv-exam-news-today-566a7f">Rgpv Exam News Today</a>,
<a href="http://sljco.coding.al/o23k1sc/german-coleslaw-recipe-no-mayo-566a7f">German Coleslaw Recipe No Mayo</a>,
<a href="http://sljco.coding.al/o23k1sc/ibiza-boar-bristle-round-brush-566a7f">Ibiza Boar Bristle Round Brush</a>,
";s:7:"expired";i:-1;}
Mini Shell