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There are two possibilities; the Danish oil mix has been changed due to 'EU' regs about what can and can't go in the mix as a carrier any more, hence needing an answer from Rustins. Three or four times a year should suffice, but if you’re in any doubt, it’s worth topping up the coating. What we are concerned about are the Danish Oils that contain industrial solvents. Oral LD50 values are obtained when test subjects are fed pesticide-treated feed or water. At Dapwood, we believe their is no reason to chance it with Danish Oil. I too have the same problem. The Danes may be less-than-honest marketers, but they aren’t fools. Here’s some background about “oil” finishes. The purpose of signal words is to alert the user to the level of toxicity of the product. We've heard good things about this oil. The best way to apply oil to your wooden worktop is to pour it straight on to the wood. The information in this blog post applies to all oil finishes. The Danish oil … Save up to 68% on 7 issues of woodworking projects and tricks. The next best, also in effectiveness, is deck stain. Once your worktop is in place, it’s important that you oil it a couple of times a week for the first two to three weeks. Z-Spar clearly contains UV absorbers. If you decide to not purchase our products, please find something that does not contain a long list of toxic chemicals. Here’s some background about “oil” finishes. But these absorbers wear out under UV exposure, resulting in the surface first dulling, then cracking if there’s a build. I didn’t find the clear any better than teak oils. By being able to directly compare LD50 values, we can see that chemicals in Danish Oil are not as toxic as benzene but almost 3 times more toxic than gasoline. But the Danes also reason (correctly) that they can take advantage of the mystique of teak as a naturally oily wood and promote the finish as oil. The final finish should have a nice even sheen to it. The finish used on teak furniture imported from Denmark and other Scandinavian countries is a very durable catalyzed (“conversion”) varnish. If it dries hard and smooth, (right), it is varnish. However, this does not impact our recommendations. So, in order to kill one rat in the half of a rat population that died (no explanation on the condition of the surviving 50% of rats) we can calculate the amount of product required. All these finishes could be grouped under the broad term “oil” because they are applied and dry the same, and all the excess has to be wiped off to be functional. LEARN MORE. Higher quality Danish Oils have more than a 50% solids content. A pesticide with an LD50 value of 10 mg/kg is 10 times more toxic than a pesticide with an LD50 of 100 mg/kg. Oil-finished teak. All these finishes could be grouped under the broad term “oil” because they are applied and dry the same, and all the excess has to be wiped off to be functional. Bob Flexner is the author of "Flexner on Finishing," "Wood Finishing 101," and "Understanding Wood Finishing. This finish is also sold under a wide variety of names, including Wipe-On Poly, Seal-a-Cell, ProFin, salad bowl finish, tung oil and teak oil. By following this procedure, the time when the entire finish has to be stripped and replaced can be postponed. Unfortunately, long-term exposure studies are extremely difficult to study and quantify. Why scare consumers? Film build. The natural color of teak is tan to medium brown and the grain resembles that of walnut. The greater the build, the better the protection for the wood against all types of moisture. UV-resistance test. All indications are that it is not good. You and your family's future health may depend on it. Wiping varnish is the outlier among the wipe-on finishes marketed as oil because wiping varnish cures hard after a number of hours. For teak and other fine woods, Interior/exterior. They don’t call themselves oil, and they market themselves as more UV-resistant than oil, which they are because they contain pigment. The ingredients contained in Danish Oil is extremely varied with each manufacturer having their own proprietary mixtures and percentages. Alongside the teak oils sold in stores and online are pigmented wipe-on/wipe-off finishes marketed for teak. Teak is native to the South Asian countries of Myanmar, Thailand, India, Cambodia and Laos, but plantations now exist elsewhere. Any suggestions. Upon exposure to UV sunlight and rain or saltwater, unfinished teak, like all woods, turns silvery gray. ‘Teak oil’ is whatever a manufacturer This is latest and takes longer to go off (bit smelly) but much better. I spent most days for three months testing products and even had some examined by a chemist trying to figure out what they were. Resistance to UV light in a wood coating is achieved in one of two ways: the inclusion of pigment or the inclusion of a UV absorber (I use the term broadly to include all types). To determine if an unknown finish that thins with mineral spirits or turpentine is oil or varnish, put a puddle on a non-porous surface such as glass or the top of the can and see how it dries. The Semco product pictured is the clear version, but pigmented versions also exist, and the company encourages you to buy them. Eventually, the coating degrades to the point that UV rays reach the wood and degrade it, and the coating peels. How To Use Danish Oil To Correctly Oil Wood Worktops, MON-FRI 08:00-18:30 / SAT 10:00-16:30 / SUN 11:00-16:00 / BANK HOLIDAYS 10:00-15:30. For teak and all fine woods, Interior/exterior. Our Showroom will be available for pre-book meeting only and under COVID-19 restrictions. A great way to stop your worktop from warping or bowing, the application of Danish Oil to your worktop will also make it water resistant. Most, but not all. o wood finish illustrates better than “teak oil” why finishing is so confusing. Danish oil should contain a high percentage of natural oil that is classified as a drying oil. If it dries soft and wrinkled (left), it is a drying oil such as linseed oil or tung oil, or a mixture of one of these oils and varnish. The quality you would want in an oil marketed for interior teak would be better drying. Feeds wood. Each time you apply a coat, leave it for about ten minutes and rework it with your cloth to get a nice, even coating. Won’t chip, crack or peel, Interior/exterior. Danish Oil, which is based on Tung oil, is sometimes called Chinese Wood oil. Commercially available teak oils are all over the map with their claims. After six months to two years (depending on latitude and exposure), they sand off the dulled surface finish and apply several more coats. The wood is prized for its resistance to fungal decay and insects such as termites and marine borers. Contrast the color of this 20-year-old handmade teak coffee table, finished with Watco Danish Oil, with the still-natural teak color of the dining table at left. Since the term "Danish Oil" is often used as a general term for a wood finish, not all products labeled "Danish Oil" are toxic. Hi Just reading comments regarding tacky finish and noone has mentioned the obvious reasons why this can happen, so thought I would incase it helps anyone! If I wipe it with white spirit may this even it out? These products either state specifically “UV resistant” or imply it in the name (“Boat,” “SeaFin,” “Marine” etc. This flies in the face of the reality of increased cancer rates, mental health issues and chemical sensitivities. Applying Danish Oil to a new wooden worktop. Teak trees aren’t drained of their oily resin to make teak oil. The term “Danish Oil” used today is a general term for a type of wood finish. Danish oil is typically wiped on, allowed to soak in to the wood for a while and then excess remaining on the surface is wiped off. These protect better than teak oils because of the pigment, but they also color the wood, which many people don’t like. From the left: Z-Spar, a boat varnish sold at marinas; Minwax Helmsman and Wood Kote Flagship, both marketed as UV-resistant and sold in home centers; and Devoe interior varnish. They may also think they are extending the life of the teak. What sealant can I use for the gap between my worktop & surrounding tiles - silicone based ones come away after time. There are several products sold in stores or online alongside teak oils that resemble a deck stain in that they contain pigment but are too thin, or dry too soft, to be built up like paint. I used red dye because it fades quickly in UV light and speeds the test. The finish typically has a flat sheen and is applied thin so it resembles non-film-building oil to an untrained eye. Some brands claim to be formulated specifically for teak and other oily woods, but they don’t dry better, which is what you would want for an oily wood that retards the drying of oils and varnishes. The cause is the degrading of the color-providing lignin and extractives at the surface, leaving only the cellulose. With a truly natural look, Danish Oil won’t make your worktop shiny like varnish; it’ll simply enhance its natural good looks. 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