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</html>";s:4:"text";s:7738:"I contacted Watco about its use and got this reply from them. Danish Oil is mostly an "in-wood" finish, not a protective film. Wax never cures and will slow down the evaporation of the solvent. Cold Cure Preparation; Tools Covid-19 ... a Watco product guarantees long lasting, high quality results, every time. But even then it's another couple weeks after that before it's really fully cured. share. I hope some of the responses were helpful. Johnson's is 75% solvent (probably naphta or mineral spirits) ~20 % paraffin wax and less than 10% carnauba. For instance, General Finishes Arm-R-Seal, an oil based wipe on poly, give a trying time of “Good drying conditions 12-24 hours. Our team of Technical Advisors are here to help before, during and after application. Most oils are wiped on, left for 30 minutes to an hour and then wiped off at each coat. As far as a desk surface... you'll probably need to put a desk mat on top so you have a writing surface. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Also, 24 hours is for re-applying subsequent layers, but it can take weeks for the finish to completely cure. We'll see how it goes. Has anyone heard of people getting sick from eating out of a wooden bowl that had finish applied?? I've used DO and no one will convince me it's not inferior to other finishes in all three categories of appearance, protection, and ease of application. Any wood handled hammer head can stay tight longer if it is soaked in boiled linseed oil before using it, and I remember that some manufacturers would label their handles as oiled hickory. Did you apply according to directions; temperature range, duration between coats, etc. A month probably. I didn't realize it had to dry for a longer period of time before doing anything else to the wood and on Monday morning (yesterday), less than a day after I rubbed in the Danish oil,  I uncovered it, wiped it down to get rid of any dust (it felt dry) and I used an oil-based spray poly on it, one coat. Invest in a Watco solution for high quality results, every time. I that situation I would strip everything back and choose a more appropriate finish. I can go sniff a grandfather clock my dad made 25 years ago and get a faint but definite smell of danish oil. However any finish including mineral oil can look good for awhile but the true test is with use. This is the product that states that it "exceeds the requirement set forth in the U.S. FDA regulations for direct and indirect food contact". 6 comments. Watco UK LtdEastgate Court195-205 High StreetGuildfordSurreyGU1 3AWT: 01483 418 418©2020 Watco Group.Registered in England - Number 459144. BIG lesson learned (read the instructions)! But there's really no point to using it under poly on red oak. I just got through tackling it with mineral spirits and it was like beef jello rolling off the edges. Every time I have tried to use Danish oil on a larger project drying times and getting a consistent result was difficult. I still like the color so tomorrow I'm going to make sure it's thoroughly de-gooped and then it's going to sit for a week before I attempt to poly it again, LOL! It felt dry-ish this morning and because I didn't want to use a spray inside, I switched to another oil-based poly that I then applied with a brush this afternoon. Display as a link instead, × I made it from cherry and gave it 3 good coats of watco danish oil. Knowing the brand and product name may help. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account. I am in the process of finishing... with Watco Danish Oil...... Its about 90% dry after 3 days but still really tacky. Some home store mixes speed this up. That open grain makes for a poor desk surface, so it's a good idea to use a grain filler to give you a smoother surface. I hate to say this, but danish oil isn't much for protecting the wood. This may take several days (3 - 7) between the first coat and subsequent coats. If the finish is still tacky, I have to believe that there is still excess Danish Oil on the surface of the wood. I made it from cherry and gave it 3 good coats of watco danish oil.  				  Your previous content has been restored. I would have soaked it down and wiped it down right away. I wipe it down every few hours for the first day... then once a day for another week. Applying oil as a base coat can bring out highly figured grain better than poly alone, so that's where I use it. Easy application and restoration process. The information that you provide will help us deliver relevant information to you regarding our products and services. Even if I finish over it. How to Apply Danish Oil. There shouldn't be anything left on the surface to get sticky. I really don't think the stuff ever loses the smell. Unfortunately, you'll have to remove the Danish Oil first...start sanding! I just don't see the advantage of using Danish oil on any project other than a workbench. Oil/varnish blends like Danish oil are just slow-drying sticky messes that cure to an uneven sheen. At 7Pm it was still not dry, sticky. But if something does go wrong, we’ll work with you to help put it right. Like Mr. Miagi said...Wax On, Wax Off. There are a bunch of ways to achieve nice wood countertops, here are the three that I've found most effective. It is great to see that lots of woodturners use Danish Oil! I recently made a silverware drawer organizer. We’ve completed over 800 tests to ISO standards across all our coatings, to bring you the most qualified paint range on the market. Sort by. Thank you for your response. Hi, I need some advice please! Display as a link instead, × Panning for Montana gold, with Betsy, the mule! I understand how water-based finishes work, because the water evaporates and the finish is what's left, but what's the chemistry behind how oil cures? It's decent furniture (I think most of the designs are fairly hideous) but DO is still a waste of his time. best. Paste as plain text instead, × Todays Danish oils have other (secret/recipes) additives but derive from the basic original recipe. Not only does the Danish oil take a long time to cure (don't confuse curing with drying), but red oak has very large, deep pores that can hold a lot of oil. It's in a closet, right? Some home store mixes speed this up. My husband is putting a floating "desk" into a closet to create a homework space for our grandchildren. Johnson's, but make sure it's without abrasives). Why did you use 3 coats? (not talking about allergies). 2) Carnuba Paste Wax (e.g. Not only does the Danish oil take a long time to cure (don't confuse curing with drying), but red oak has very large, deep pores that can hold a lot of oil. The board was left at room temperature for 48 hours before it was used to allow the Danish oil to cure. This was done at noon. "Thank you for contacting Rust-Oleum Product Support. level 1. I might even venture to say gummy. It was used extensively on wooden hand tools (like axes/ hammer handles/hand planes) to help keep them from distortion. You can post now and register later. With over 90 years’ experience of developing coatings that give an exceptional finish, a Watco product guarantees long lasting, high quality results, every time. Good helpful group here. It might take up to several days to set, and can be tested by dry rubbing a paper towel to determine when it has hardened. It takes up a lot of time. Have been working with wood since high school shop class in the 60's. If it still feels bad Friday, you might have to start over. This tackiness will have to be removed, and usually the easiest way to do this is to buff the surface down with fine steel wool (#000 or #0000) and mineral spirits. ";s:7:"keyword";s:26:"watco danish oil cure time";s:5:"links";s:4397:"<a href="http://digiprint.coding.al/site/page.php?tag=41e064-shure-sm57-microphone">Shure Sm57 Microphone</a>,
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